Thursday, February 21, 2008

The economics of custom menswear

The economics of menswear retail (custom men's suits and custom men's shirts) is pretty crazy.

Custom menswear is a funny industry.  To the customer, independent menswear shops look to be boutique tailors.  But behind the scenes, it is big business.  Large wholesalers bulk-purchase luxury Italian and English fabrics and set up large-scale, computer-aided or hand-worked tailor facilities.  The small menswear shoppe is really a distribution outlet for a centralized production house that's shared by 300 or 400 other 'boutiques'.   

The industry standard is a 60% gross margin from production house to wholesaler, and a 60% margin from wholesaler to retailer.

Here's how the industry does the math:

Say the production house sells a suit to a wholesaler for $100.  The wholesaler sells that suit to an independent menswear shop at a 60% margin.  That is:

100 / (1.00 - 0.60) = 250

So the menswear shop buys the suit from the wholesaler for $250.  Then, he figures out his own margin:

250 / (1.00 - 0.60) = 625


Surely we're smart enough to bypass those margins.  

The key is to do so AND still access the best workmanship and the best materials.  That takes scale.  The high-quality production houses invest tens of millions in equipment and fabric inventory.  They're after global clients:  Armani, Boss, Gap, Marks & Spencer...

In our case, we formed a joint venture with one of the largest custom luxury menswear wholesalers in North America.  We gave them a chunk of equity in exchange for an exclusive agreement to tap their global production house at less-than wholesale price.  (That's a helluva story...coming soon.)

And that's how we began to open up the luxury supply chain.  It's a tightly closed, carefully protected resource...but now Moniker is on the inside.

And we're crazy enough to let the world in.  

No comments: